Global commerce drives global affairs. The $1.95 trillion global fashion industry is a notoriously problematic actor on environmental and social fronts, recognized as a significant greenhouse gas emitter, a heavy user of industrial chemicals and an exploiter of a labor force consisting primarily of women in the global South. Fashion—whether exemplified in the fast fashion of Zara and Shein, the luxury goods of Dior and Chanel, or the sneakers sold by Adidas and Nike—currently confronts an imperative to align with worldwide actions addressing both the climate crisis and calls for social justice. A dizzying variety of efforts and initiatives have been introduced to “fix” fashion, but the landscape is convoluted, and the answers are elusive. This capstone will help to illuminate the problems, enhance the available data, and propose real-world solutions.
The fashion industry, as an area of global commerce, has two overarching problems. First, its constituents have competing interests: fashion brands and conglomerates, which seek short-term growth and profit maximization, are not aligned with the companies producing goods along the global supply chain, which seek to retain direct foreign investment and are reluctant to adhere to responsible climate or fair labor practices. Second, no international laws govern the fashion industry, and no regulatory entity at the global level oversees corporate operations or ensures transparency or accountability. Instead, an array of “soft law” initiatives issued by international organizations, including the UN and the OECD, aim to fill the gaps. These efforts, while useful, are voluntary, non-binding, not connected to monitoring or governance mechanisms, and thus do not compel accountability or transparency. Likewise, a range of non-profit organizations, including the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, the Wilson Center, and the NRDC, have entered the dialogue, contributing data, case studies and analyses to further the understanding of fashion’s challenges and opportunities, but they are not positioned to promulgate policies or regulations. In short, the fashion industry operates with minimal regulation and oversight and with few incentives to catalyze positive change.
Capstone students will work with The Global Fashion Agenda, a worldwide network of brands, NGOs, and businesses committed to creating a net positive fashion industry. Students in the Capstone will engage with the GFA and its partners to examine intersections of fashion, climate, and commerce, gathering data and providing an analysis of possibilities for a more inclusive a responsible fashion system. Special projects will include research around global policy and its harmonization, including ways in which the different obligations brought by ongoing legislation impact different regions. Students will present a final report and recommendations for policy and regulatory change to the GFA and will have the opportunity to participate in its events, including symposia, masterclasses, and its annual global summit.